JPG mode doesn't give you near the control when it comes to post-processing. When you're capturing night skies, be sure to shoot in RAW file format for the most flexibility in editing options. In a pinch, you can use the self-timer on your camera. I recommend a remote camera trigger (to avoid disturbing your tripod and for long exposures). To bring out the details in your night photos during the editing process, I recommend you pick up the Adobe Photography Plan bundle, which includes both Photoshop and Lightroom Classic. Great night photography doesn’t end after taking your photos.
The latter has a cool Night AR feature that lets you line up your phone with the sky and shows you which celestial bodies are there. My favorites include Star Walk, which shows you where the Milky Way is (or plots where it will be), and PhotoPills. Okay, this is optional, but you’ll thank your lucky stars you had this! A star map shows you exactly where the Milky Way, moon, and certain constellations are, taking the guesswork out of planning your shots. You’ll be shooting long exposure, with 15 seconds as your minimum shutter speed, so you’ll need a tripod that’s sturdy and stable. I normally say tripods are optional when shooting, but not when it comes to night photography. A sweet zone would be a lens in the f/1.4 – f/2.8 range. The aperture is identified by the small letter ‘f’ followed by a number like f/1.8. Lenses for Milky Way photography need to have a large maximum aperture (remember, the bigger the aperture, the faster your lens will be) to allow a lot of light to reach your camera’s sensor. You also want to make sure your camera lets you focus manually.
HOW TO UPLOAD PHOTOS TO INSTAGRAM FROM NIKON B500 ISO
To take amazing Milky Way photography and star photography, you’ll need a camera that allows you to fully control its aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings. Sorry folks, but you gotta put the iPhones away for this one.
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